Wheat country is located in central Oregon on the eastern edge of Wasco County.
Surprisingly, though, it also contains some wine country.
You may visit Shadowbuck Farm, a completely off-grid vineyard and winery, four miles northeast of Dufur down gravel roads so rural that Apple Maps gets confused.
Owner Tom Peters observed, somewhat proudly, “You’re out in the middle of nowhere.”
This vineyard and functioning farm is only open by appointment. This is not a fancy tasting room. There isn’t any subdued jazz music playing in the background, nor are there any café tables packed with charcuterie platters, however you are welcome to take a wrapped pound of lamb or beef from Shadowbuck Farms home.
Peters welcomes guests outside the metal warehouse that houses the industrial freezer for the company’s other side, which involves growing meat goats, wagyu, and Black Angus/wagyu-cross cattle, as well as the barrel room, fermentation and bottling room, and a massive parts storage space the size of an Ace Hardware.
The animals, however, arrived later. Peters began with wine.
In 2007, he purchased a 500-acre wheat farm. After three years of leaving the area untended, Peters planted his first grapes in 2010. Together with Russell Peters, his grandson who attended Santa Rosa Community College to study viticulture, he began experimenting as his own winemaker.
Although the elder Peters lacks formal training, he has a wealth of expertise making wine from his own vineyard.
I’ve simply been around wine all my life. He said that he had grown up farming in the Columbia Basin, relocated to Vancouver, established a business there, and was constantly experimenting with farming. My brother and I owned farms and other things. One day we had had enough of Portland. I discovered this place for sale as I drove over here. Just a large wheat farm on dry soil. purchased it the following Friday.
Peters speaks in a straightforward manner that can understate his achievements.
That business he founded? In 2012, Walker & Dunlop paid $234 million to buy CW Capital, a national financing company with 300 workers, of which he was a partner.
He is currently a rancher and winemaker in addition to being the director of FHA business development at NewPoint Real Estate Capital.
In 2015, he made his first vintage of wine.
“We do everything organic, even though we’re not certified organic,” Peters stated. Chemicals are costly.
With the assistance of a herd of goats, he mechanically removes weeds using an in-row hoeing technique. Pest management is provided by a resident team of barn cats.
A wood-burning outdoor stove provides heat for the structures, and Shadowbuck is powered by solar energy and well water.
According to Peters, the power provider requested $200,000 to bring in electricity. “No, I think I can figure that out with solar,” I replied.
The main shop is powered by a single phase array of 96 panels. The winery’s equipment is powered in three phases by a separate 180-panel solar array. Although Peters has three backup generators in case of emergency, there is no shortage of solar electricity due to the east side of Mount Hood’s often bright days.
However, grapes can be difficult to grow in such sun.
Because it’s all ripe, our pinot is very different from anything you get in the Willamette Valley, Peters explained. We give our grapes more sunlight. Sunburn is a potential concern, but if you plant your rows well, you will receive shade at the proper time of day and avoid becoming sunburned.
There are currently 60 acres of grapes in Peters, and another 30 will be added over the course of the following two years. Shiraz, cabernet, pinot, gew rztraminer, petit verdot, merlot, and albari o are among the white and red grape varieties he farms.
According to Peters, Shadowbuck makes between 50 and 60 barrels of wine annually.A white viognier or ros costs $15 per bottle, while the 2018 Syrah Viogner Double Gold costs $75.
Shadowbuck, which is mostly concentrated on the Hood River, is located east of the Columbia Gorge AVA and slightly beyond the Columbia Valley AVA’s boundary. However, the broader Dufur area is home to two additional vineyards: 15 Mile Winery, which is situated along Fifteenmile Creek, and Sunshine Winery, which owns Sunshine Mills in The Dalles.
Rally racers and cyclists love the hilly gravel roads that encircle Shadowbuck Winery. Every spring, Peters’ property is passed by the Oregon Trail Rally. On the racetrack, a dip in the road in front of the farm where it crosses Jameson Creek is referred to as the “Shadowbuck Splash.”
Shadowbuck opened a tasting room in the town’s Dufur Market six months ago. It is open Friday and Saturday from 3-6 p.m. According to Peters, more individuals are learning about the pleasures of Dufur.
“What’s here surprises a lot of people,” he remarked. Many visitors arrive at the (Balch) hotel, end up in the tasting room, and then want to return the following day.
Visit shadowbuckwinery.com to schedule a visit to Shadowbuck Winery or to learn more about forthcoming special events.
Here is Oregon and The Oregonian/OregonLive are covered by Samantha Swindler. You may reach her at oregonian.com/sswindler.
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